Peru — A story of Cultural Heritage & Sustainability

Peru, nestled in “La Sierra” or Andes Mountains, conjures images of the Incan city of Machu Picchu,the richness of cultures colliding in Lima producing arguably South America’s best cuisine, and the expansiveness of the Amazon Rainforest, covering half of the country.

The Andes Range, the longest continental mountain range in the world, provides a variety of rich microclimates ideal for growing coffee.

When Did Coffee Production begin in Peru?

Coffee production began in Peru in the late 18th century, presumably through neighboring Ecuador (London School of Coffee). Coffee production has become more prominent recently, and many farmers have adopted organic methods employing traditional practices. Farmers use natural fertilizers called “guano de la isla” to enrich the soil and employ crop rotation as a way to control weeds and pests.

Peru’s agricultural heritage dates back to the early 15th century during the time of the Incan civilization, who employed irrigation methods still visible across the terraced slopes of the Andean landscape. You can see these sloped terraces at Machu Pichu. According to Smithsonian Magazine, Peruvians are trying to relearn Incan farming methods. The article, “Farming like the Incas” explains that these ancient irrigation systems are returning due to their efficiency,

“Today, in a corner of the Andes, people are breathing new life into ancient practices. Inspired by recent archaeological research, they are rebuilding terraces and irrigation systems and reclaiming traditional crops and methods of planting. They do this in part because Incan agricultural techniques are more productive and more efficient in terms of water use. But these modern farmers also believe the Incan ways can offer simple solutions to help protect communities’ food supply in the face of climate change.“ -Cynthia Graber SMITHSONIANMAG.COMSEPTEMBER 6, 2011

What makes Peruvian coffee unique?

Coffee is mainly planted in shaded areas, promoting preservation of incredible biodiversity in the Amazon rainforest. Most coffee is grown by independent farmers and cooperatives of small farms under Fair Trade practices.

Photo by Justin Clark on Unsplash

Peru is the second largest producer of organic coffee in the world (CATIE, 2019). Coffee in Peru and generally throughout Latin America came from the common ancestor of the Typica variety of Arabica plants. About half of all production is based in the Northern region of Cajamarca. Peru’s microclimates and regions allow for diversity in coffee growing, and therefore distinct flavors.

Peru’s greatest focus is on Typica (70%) and Cuturra (20%) varietals of Arabica. Coffee is grown at high altitudes typically between 800 to 2000 meters. High altitude growth is slower, and thus produces higher quality beans and more concentrated flavors. As a result, the coffee beans are denser, due to a slower growth of coffee plants, producing a fuller, more complex flavor.

Climate Challenges & Coffee Production in Peru

Coffee growing in Peru is heavily influenced by the currents of El Niño. This weather phenomena poses challenges to farmers as it can cause heavy rains, drought, monsoons, hurricanes etc. Coffee production faces unique challenges due to global warming. Across South America, coffee is planted at 500–1500 meters above sea level, at the current rate of rising temperatures by 2050 computer models imply that, coffee planting would need to occur 1,000–2,500 meters above sea level, thus decreasing coffee production and as a result Peru has enacted policies to combat climate change (Cerda 2017 in Peru Reports, Sanchez). As a consumer, you might consider supporting countries that support that agricultural practices with sustainability in mind.

Peruvian Coffee Flavor Profile

Peruvian coffee is generally known for its medium body, mellow or bright acidity with nutty, chocolate notes and sweetness. It can contain mild to intense floral and earthy properties, as well as a smooth mouthfeel and fragrant aroma. Peruvian coffee is often included in blends, although many varieties stand well in their own right. Peru has a variety of environments for coffee growing, providing distinct flavors. Peruvian coffee is coming into its own in recent years, capitalizing on soil offering a wide range of micro-climates for coffee and chocolate growing.

Some coffee experts, such as SK Coffee suggest that Peruvian coffee offers new, fresher flavors due to its newer coffee production. A similar argument is often made with wine production, older vines in Europe produce different flavors than newer vines in the Americas.

Wet Processing Methods

Some of the differences in Peruvian coffee profiles are also due to the way coffee is processed. Peruvian coffee is primarily focused on wet-processing. Peruvian coffee is typically picked by hand, stripped of the outer pulp, fermented using different techniques, and then washed in small-scale wet mills.

According to Campesino Mateo, who lived in Peru and learned traditional methods directly from farmers, this “washed coffee” produces coffee that is cleaner in flavor, with brighter acidity.

Peru is working to de-commoditize coffee, along with other nations mentioned in prior blogs like Costa Rica, in the hopes of disguising their varied, unique, and artisanal processes & products. For example, Peru recently produced award-winning coffees such as, Peru’s Cup of Excellence Winner — Finca La Perla. With the Cup of Excellence Alliance for Coffee Excellence, Peru is working diligently to de-commoditize coffee, highlighting the hard work of coffee farmers and honoring their high-quality organic offerings.

Highlands, Cusco, Peru @dascalvisual

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References/Further Reading:

If you want an in-depth full sensory view of Peru’s coffee by region, browse the guide of its regions in the link below. This sensory map is the representation of a set of elements or categories that have been perceived by human senses. In the case of coffee, a sensory map captures its aromas, flavors, tastes, and textures.

Works Cited:

‘CATIE experts participated in the International Congress of Specialty Coffees of Peru’ (2019).October 29, 2019. Dr. Hugo Li Pun, CATIE Representative, Peru. https://www.catie.ac.cr/en/catie-news/4135-catie-experts-participated-in-the-international-congress-of-specialty-coffees-of-peru.html

Campesino Mateo Link: https://www.campesinomateo.com

Graber, Cynthia. Farming like the Incas. SMITHSONIANMAG.COM, SEPTEMBER 6, 2011. Accessed at https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/farming-like-the-incas-70263217/

London School of Coffee. Peru. Accessed at https://www.coffeehunter.com/coffee-country/peru/

Peruvian Coffee Varieties YouTube Discussion with SK Coffee & Campesino Mateo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ecb-u9sAGs

Sanchez, D. Agriculture in Peru resilient after 2017 El Niño Costero phenomenon. Peru Reports. September 25, 2017

https://perureports.com/agriculture-peru-2017/5502/

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